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Archive for the ‘sewing’ Category

I haven’t really been one for tank tops, but it’s summer and I saw this new pattern on so many body shapes. I had to try it myself! (Patterns 4 Pirates Essential Tank.)

There were some alterations. I did a pivot-and-slide FBA in the front, and then in the back I graded out significantly below the waist, and did a swayback adjustment. It’s still not perfect, but it’s so much nicer than items available in stores.

Blue linen tank - front

Blue linen tank – front

Blue linen tank - back.

Blue linen tank – back.

The purple/blue one is a linen knit, with centre front and centre back seams due to the very narrow fabric pieces I had. Scraps from Our Social Fabric! The linen didn’t have enough recovery, so I chose to use bands in a grey and black stripe cotton. I love it! There’s a little swing out in the front that could be due to the fabric, and the back could use a little more tweaking, but it’s so comfortable!

I also made an orange as a remake of a tunic length t-shirt I made to wear with leggings. I had to fudge a bit, but I’m a lot more pleased with the fit of the tee now! It’s in the laundry, so no pics today.

In other news, Me Made May was a success on my part! I have a couple knit dresses that are now loungewear, due to the knits not having enough recovery to actually be full-skirted dresses. I made a bunch of pairs of the Patterns for Pirates Peg Legs (altered for a higher rise and narrower waistband) to wear under skirts and dresses, and also made a couple new dresses! The light seems pretty good in my dark apartment today, so the goal is to get a bunch of things photographed, and drafts started.

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I’m not 100% convinced about this, but I think once it’s hemmed it’ll be great in the winter with a cardigan. Mostly the waistline looks… weird. I have a super high waist, but the dress almost looks too long in the back and too short in the front. Meh. Maybe next time I’ll do a band at the waist instead of just bodice -> skirt!

Dress Front

Dress Front

The main colour is teal ponte, and the black is a higher quality random bit of ponte I had in my stash.

The bodice is a Moneta in L and a 2″ total FBA which may not have been enough in this more solid fabric. I drew in princess seams to do side panels, and also used the back for neck and arm bindings.

Dress Side

Dress Side

The skirt is Tiramisu, cut big and with no CF or CB seams. I used the slash pockets from Cambie.

Dress Back

Dress Back

Maybe if like it better if there weren’t the gathers for the skirt? Idk, I’ve been looking at pictures of Moneta all week while I tried to decide what to do, and I actually really liked them on people!

So that’s my new dress. Yay dress! I definitely want more in softer jerseys, and will probably make more in ponte with some size adjustments.

Sorry for the wonky photos. I did them with my phone propped on some stuff on a chair!

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Yes! I’m already making another one.

I used the size L, and did a 1″ (on one side, so 2″ total) FBA and spun the dart out to make it a princess seam bodice, with the seam laying off to the side of my bust. I also pieced the back. Then I sewed it all together and tried it on! Actually pretty darn good. I just needed to take in the princess seams where they meet the arm hole, due to a tiny rib cage and a fairly high bust. The extra length is really good, but there’s still space for a black waistband should I so choose.

It’s a really pretty jewel tone teal ponte, with black sides, and other black trim I haven’t decided on. You see, I’m stuck! I’m not sure if I should line it with powernet, or just leave it and add a black neck binding and teal sleeves with black trim, or if it should be sleeveless, or if I should do a Tiramisu skirt or a full circle skirt, or what.

So indecisive.

But me, a non-dress-wearing-person actually LOVES the dress she wore today and wants more. So, uhh, I’m gonna listen to myself.

I probably could have finished it today, but I’d rather take my time and think about it, and not use too many spoons sewing. I’m so SO thankful that this knit dress has worked so well with minimal changes.

(I still have plans for more wide leg trousers, and more skirts, and more blouses, and even some woven dresses. But! Knit!! Dresses!!!)

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And I still haven’t finished updating Me Made May. Urgh. I don’t think I’m so good with the whole taking photos thing! Although, I do have editing software on my phone now so if I can find an inexpensive tripod that I can leave set up, and a phone holder thing, I’ll be able to take photos on my PHONE and edit them and write posts! That seems like a pretty good plan.

Anyways, I’ve been sewing a bit. I made another Cake Patterns tank (the Janthina Shell), and I really love the pattern although I’m ultra super short through the upper body so next time I’ll have to raise the arm holes. There will DEFINITELY be a next time for this one. Love it so much. And today I finally printed out Colette Moneta, and taped it together (Is it just me or is their print-at-home layout horrifically wasteful? I had to print ~19 pages for the bodice and short sleeves, and it feels like I threw more than half of it into the recycling!). I had a Tiramisu dress that was giving me Issues, so I chopped off the bodice and slapped on a Moneta bodice instead. I checked Moneta against my Scout Tee, and determined the neckline was way to wide and high for me, so I changed it a bit. I also did a teensy swayback adjustment, and lengthened the front by about 1/2″. Then attached the Tiramisu skirt! It’s AMAZING. Seriously. The only issue? Not enough fabric, so I had to seam the front and also cut it on an angle. Still, I didn’t do too bad a job matching stripes on the fly, so I’m not terribly upset.

I’ve already altered the pattern to have a 1″ swayback adjustment (or short-back adjustment, tbh) and measured the neckline as I HATE the fold-over finish. I’ll be using a regular bound edge for the next one I’m making. In fact, the next one is coming up pretty quick. I have a delightful teal ponte, and some black ponte. I’m going to do black side panels and a black belt. and black binding on the neck. Just about to do a small FBA (I’m using the L size bodice for the FBA, and making it a touch bigger than the XL for this fabric), and I’ll convert the dart into a wide princess seam for the side panels. Teal is not my colour at all, so this feels like a good option for making it work!

Here’s a sneak peek of my Monetisu? Tireta? Whatever mashup name you choose, it’s a great combo. Moneta/Tiramisu Mashup!

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More Tops Needed!

So I was fortunate enough to be a tester for printing a new pattern from Cake Patterns (WOO!), and decided to go through the whole process and make up the pattern.

image

Umm. 1.5″ petite adjustment above the bust. After I sewed on the neck binding. Whoops. I always forget how short I am above the waist. Thankfully I can just re-cut from the tank I am wearing, then re-sew the whole thing. :) I will definitely get a lot of use out of this pattern, the V-neck once it’s been raised is just about perfect, and I love the height of the underarm. The addition of sleeves will be super simple, and then it’ll be really close to my favourite, super old t-shirt that I haven’t been able to get rid of. Just a soft v-neck instead of a scoop.

I used my Blank Canvas Tee (the original!) as a guide for a minor swayback adjustment, and I think I’ll use it as a guide for some more adjustments to the back, as I’m so narrow above the waist there compared to my front.

Unfortunately, I’m not wearing any me-mades so far today! Just some me-hemmed yoga pants. I was hoping this would be a quicker make, but figuring out the neckline (Just trust. Really.) and then having to re-cut have made it a bit longer than I expected.

Oh well. I’ll be done in a couple more hours, especially since the neck binding makes sense now.

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Super creative title, I know.

I made the StyleArc’s Barb’s Stretch Pants again. With pockets that I drafted! The pockets are a touch small, but they will fit my current phone and keys, which is a definite improvement over no pockets.

This time I also used 5/8″ seam allowance for the inner and outer seams (but not the centre seam!!) to narrow the legs. It actually worked quite well, but I have a fitting “issue”. You see, I have tiny knees and really large calves, so the jeans are slim cut through the thigh and calf, but baggy at the knee and ankle! I’m not entirely sure how to deal with this. I think I’ll end up washing them, then putting them on inside out and pinning them to a closer fit through at least the knee.

The only difficulty with that is of course I did a felled seam on the inner leg this time (I was testing things! It worked really well!).

Anyways, the first pair of trousers are super comfortable and I really like them. I’ll be altering this pattern to make somewhat more of a boot cut, as well as doing fully shaped lower legs so I can actually have a true “skinny” jean. I’ve never seen a shaped trouser leg pattern like that before, so this should be interesting.

I’m sewing with some friends on Sunday, so I might be able to get some pictures of my stuff ON me instead of just hanging up. :)

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I know I want to make a softshell jacket, but I also recently did a closet clean out and I’m really running low on some clothing items. Namely Hummingbird Skirts (my grey linen one is pulling apart at all the seams right at the hem!) and trousers (I have two pairs and they are both old and poorly fitting).

So because I follow the Curvy Sewing Collective, and there was this post on elastic trouser waistbands, I got a bee in my bonnet and have sewn up a pair of trousers today. Yes, the Barb’s Trousers from Style Arc (I got the PDF format off Etsy!).

So, I purchased the pattern (as one does) and noticed that the three sizes are all in separate PDFs. Uhh. That’s awkward. It would be great if they were nested, and also if they were set on the pages just a little better so there wasn’t that wee sliver of pattern on an otherwise empty page. However, it did tape together pretty well, and since it’s only 3 pieces, I suppose it wasn’t that big of a deal. But it would be nicer.

I sewed the size 22. In a stretch denim I randomly purchased a bolt of for $20. The only adjustment I made to start with was I lengthened the CB seam by 1.5″, as I have a high waist and large behind.

Except for some serger issues (I swear I’ve rethreaded it 3 or 4 times now and it STILL won’t sew right!), they went together perfectly. I made the waistband elastic shorter by wrapping it around my waist instead of whatever the pattern reccomends… and they’re way too big above the hip. Whoops!

I can take in the CB seam on this pair no problem, and maybe take in the side seams a little bit.

I definitely need to make some adjustments for future pairs, because there WILL be future pairs! The CB seam needs to be taken in at least 1″. The side seams need to be adjusted for a small waist on both the front and back. And the waistband will need to be adjusted as well.

Otherwise, they fit pretty well! I might fuss with the CF seam a bit, maybe adjust the curve, maybe not. The length is really nice, since my black ponte jeans are almost 2″ too short. And the stretch and elastic waist at my natural waist line are also nice. They just need to be tighter!

And!! I chose this size run because I’m trying to be more honest about my measurements (my Belcarra blouses are a little snug…), but they’re too big! I even wouldn’t mind them being smaller through the thighs, but I guess that really depends on how stretchy the material is.

One other thing I’ll be doing for future pairs is drafting some pockets, probably with a waist stay and fake fly. I don’t really like rear pockets, but I do need somewhere to put my keys and/or phone at work. And really, I get so tired of the fact that women’s clothing has so few pockets. We need to carry things too!

(And I’ve hemmed them and adjusted the CB seam. I took 2″ out, and they feel almost perfect now. Yay!)

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