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Archive for January, 2013

After sewing most of the dress last night, I realized that it probably isn’t a French terry. I think it’s just a thick 100% cotton knit, as it has practically no recovery. The dress is pretty good, but there are some things I need to fix on it,

  • Even though I cut the neckline binding quite a bit shorter than the actual neck opening, it’s just not doing its job. I need to undo the underbust seam where the binding attaches and slide some flat elastic in there to help hold everything together. This is due to the fabric. This won’t happen if I make the dress again in a real French terry, as the ones I have available have a little lycra in them.
  • The sleeves need a wide sleeve binding, as the narrow just doesn’t work in this fabric.
  • I will probably have to hem it. Sigh.

One thing I’ve noticed is that the dress is quite low-cut on me. Low-cut to the point where most of my bras show (I wear everything except plunges, so this is irritating). I had moved the CF seam 1 cm to get more of an overlap, to hopefully raise the neckline, but that didn’t happen. Instead, I’m getting those drag lines that move diagonally down and out from the binding. I also think I need more width above the bust, so I might slash-and-spread along the FBA line and ease the front shoulder into the back. This is pretty typical for me as my front ribs are much broader than my back, and then on top of that I have a very full bust.

Tiramisu, Magenta fabric, no skirt

Tiramisu, Magenta fabric, no skirt

I’d really really prefer the mole to be covered, or at least my cleavage not be quite so exposed, but I’m not sure what to do as I get more drag lines if I add more overlap. Maybe I should just add to the overlap seam on the dress, instead of overlapping more. Hmm.

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So I’ve been working on sewing up a Tiramisu by Cake Patterns. I’ve made one for a friend, and it’s pretty much perfect except for the fabric being too stretchy. So she’s going to come over this week and I’ll cut out the underbust seam to take up the extra fabric, and I’ll also take it in under the arms a bit.

I did a muslin the other day, and then decided (upon viewing Steph’s underbust fitting tutorial) to just go for it in my French terry. I’ll put a couple pleats into the underbust, then pin the seam and try on the dress. If the seam needs any finessing in the heavy fabric, then I’ll take extra length out, etc. But if it doesn’t, then I’ll just sew things up.

The dress takes me about 3 hours to sew, from getting out the fabric and pattern, to hemming.. although I must admit that my hem is a quick run through the serger, as I’m not worried about the finish on a knit dress for casual wear. The full turned up hem only takes me about 15 minutes, though, so it’s not an entirely daunting task should I decide the dress needs it.

I have 2 metres of the French Terry, and with some futzing and the elimination of the CF seam, I am able to cut every part of the dress out of this 2 metres. I’ll be cutting the pockets out of a cotton quilting fabric to reduce bulk, as this fabric is ridiculously thick. I think I have something in a similar colourway, but I can always use my Blue Clouds fabric should I not be able to find anything.

Magenta Tiramisu, cut out

Magenta Tiramisu, cut out

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It’s actually not too bad! I cut the 40C, and did a 3″ FBA (so 1.5″ spread across the nipple area), and then increased the overlap by 1cm. I also ended up unpicking the front to pull the crossover down to make it lay flatter against my chest. Hmm. Not 100% successful.

I think what I need to do is pinch out from the arm to the neckline (1″ at the neckline, reducing to nothing at the arm) just like I did for my last Blank Canvas Tee. I did stretch the binding slightly as I placed it, so this really shouldn’t be happening. I think it’s an artifact of having rather large breasts on a small rib cage.

There’s also a little pooling under the bust that I’ve already snipped off the pattern. And I have to do a better job of the flipping gathers next time! Yeesh! Gathers belong under the bosom, not in the centre front!

I also hope for a little more overlap on the next one. This is one of my lower bras. You can sort of see my mole if you click on the top picture… that’s where the crossover needs to happen!

Front view of Tiramisu, it looks OK but it could be better.

Front view of Tiramisu, it looks OK but it could be better.


Tiramisu pulled down, to simulate a skirt.

Tiramisu pulled down, to simulate a skirt.


Where the underbust seam should actually go on the Tiramisu.

Where the underbust seam should actually go.


Weird angle view of front.

Weird angle view of front.


IDK. Another weird angle.

IDK. Another weird angle.

So there you go. Tiramisu 1. I have a couple changes to make (I think it’s too long all over, looking at my horrible mirror pictures.), but so far, so good.

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