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Archive for August, 2012

Tessuti Lily Linen Dress Pattern

Seen here.

I adore this style of dress, and I’m thinking about how I could make it work for me. I’d need to shorten it so it hit the knees. A full bust adjustment for sure, and probably a centre back seam so I could do a dress-style full bottom adjustment.

But… would it be worth it?

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The Too Small Shorts

I am so sad about these ones! The fabric doesn’t relax as much as the black twill, and I also made the waist a little too small.

The facing and pockets were made from an adorable cloud print. If I could let them out at the 4 main seams, they’d be perfect. As it is, I’m trying I foist them off on a friend. Thankfully I have a friend with a similar lower body shape, just 1-2 inches smaller!

20120815-104139.jpg

20120815-104222.jpg

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More shorts.

These ones are out of an unknown blend denim look-a-like. OH GEEZ THEY’RE SNUG. Photos to come, once they’ve relaxed a bit.

The pockets are rad, even though I misjudged the pocket opening size. They’ll still fit keys and my phone, but not really my hands! I made a mistake with the zipper, but I don’t feel like fixing it, and it’s likely no one will notice.

The next pair will have pockets AND a fly front, because the invisible zip + tight pants + pockets = annoying.

Edit: I ended up making the inside thigh seam as narrow as it can go. Unfortunately the CF and CB and side seams are all topstitched. D: They do fit, but I’m considering undoing the rest of the seams, which would be a lot of work. These might end up being given away.

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A shocker, I know! I need to get a couple things made before I continue to work on my bodice block.

I was hoping to use one of the hacks for the blank canvas tee, but not only is 3 Hours Past down, but 1 metre of fabric is not enough for the flutter sleeves in my size. Boo. Oh well. If I have any purple or grey thread, I’ll re-thread the serger and see if I can figure out a rolled hem to keep the drape of the fabric.

I did a small swayback adjustment, and made the sleeves a little shorter. This fabric is super stretchy and floppy, so I will be doing a lot of careful stay stitching.

On Saturday I purchased more black twill to make another pair of bermuda shorts with. It’s not yet washed yet, and there are some issues that I need to address with the pattern. When wearing them, it feels like the side seam is too long, so I’ll be taking some very tiny tucks at the part where the thigh meets the body. I’ll also be raising the back rise and making the waist smaller. Hopefully that will prevent the pulling down and muffin topping thing that’s been happening. I think this pair will also have pockets, because pockets are useful and I’m totally crushing Liz’s (Zilredloh’s) Thurlow trousers. Based on her photos of the pattern pieces, I’m going to try angling my CF seam to see if that will improve the fit there. The crotch on my shorts and trousers is mostly fine, but when I took out the front darts, I should have shifted them to the CF and not the side seams.

I’m also thinking (again) about using the magenta French terry I have for a Vogue 8728. It’s either that, or hope that Stephanie from 3 Hours Past gets her Tiramisu dress out soon!

But I think that making a t-shirt and starting on another pair of shorts is a pretty lofty goal for today as it is. I’ll hopefully be adding in a self-timer photoshoot of the trousers I’ve made, to better illustrate the issues I’m having with my pattern. It worked so well in the orange ramie, but as soon as I transferred to a fabric with more drape, problems decided to show themselves…

And I totally forgot to post this. Ahh well. I’m done the t-shirt. It’s amazing how quick they go when you don’t finish the sleeves or hem! I’m considering adding a band a la Sewaholic’s Renfrew, but I’m undecided. It would finish it and make it more office appropriate, but it might also make the shirt a little more constricting. I guess I could stretch the t-shirt and keep the band stable.

Purple shirt and black dress pants front.

Purple shirt and black dress pants front.

Purple shirt and black dress pants back.

Purple shirt and black dress pants back.

Purple tee: I think I could probably add even more to the back hip. But if I did that I’d probably want a CB seam, and that would make sewing a t-shirt more effort. With this light fabric, I could have stretched the neck binding more. There’s a bit of a wrinkle in it, and I’ve pressed it so I’m not sure if it will resolve once washed. I would prefer more shape in the front, but I’m not sure how to go about adding that without having a bunch of new seams. I was thinking that a merge with Vogue 8728 might look good, but then I’d have mega gathers over my bust, and I don’t really want to draw attention to how big it is – I’d rather show that I do actually have a waist under there.

Black trousers: See how they’re weirdly draping along the inseam in the front picture? That goes away if I take wee tiny tucks out of the front side seam. The little crotch/front tummy wrinkling goes away when I angle the CF seam slightly. The back… well, it’s hard to say, but I think it’ll drape better if I take wee tiny tucks out of the side seam. The weird drape is (I think!) because I’m a little knock-kneed, but none of my fitting books address the issue. I narrowed the leg of these trousers by taking fabric from the inside seam, and I think I should have taken it just from the outside seam. My reasoning was similar to Liz’s with her Thurlow trousers – I wanted my legs to look like legs, and to not be a block from the hips down.

Grey Linen Shorts back

Grey Linen Shorts back

Grey Linen Shorts side

Grey Linen Shorts side

These shorts, while super comfy, are not the most flattering. The linen is also pilling something fierce, so if I buy more it’ll be for a sleeveless dress (like Cambie!). The zipper is terrible, I cut them wrong, and there is so much extra space through the front leg but the back leg actually hits my skin. This is partially due to stretching the fabric with sitting (it’s linen. It grows.) and partially due to my body shape. I think I’ll be sticking to my stretch bermuda shorts in the future.

Also: knock knees. Only really apparent when I’m standing like this, but it still affects the fit. IDK.

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Pictures…

So I was just going through the pictures I’ve taken of all the shorts and things I’ve made recently, and I realized… no wonder they look like they don’t fit. I’m SO swollen. So next week, once my body has settled down a bit, I’ll be re-doing the photos.

That way I’ll be able to do before-and-afters, so I can see how the fabric is relaxing through the day. Some of the pants feel like they gain a size, although I used twill tape in the top seam of the waistband so at least they don’t ever fall down!

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