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Archive for May, 2012

More pants!

Well, shorts, actually.

No pictures as of this moment, but once things are done (and maybe once my condensed courses are done in the middle of June!) I’ll upload some pictures.

I decided to see what I could do to get a rectangular gusset in a pair of shorts. I have a pair of nylon hiking pants that technically fit, but aren’t that comfy for hiking (just a little snug for those high steps!), so I measured those up and made my adjustments to my pattern.

SUCCESS! I made the gusset 5″ wide at the crotch, with a right angle at the front, and an acute angle for the back.

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Yeah, like that. Kinda.

The gusset is 4″ at the knee. I added patch pockets because they’re just easier to do, in a similar style to my nylon pants. All the seams are ironed to one side, and stitched down with a single line. I didn’t feel like mucking with a double needle if these didn’t work out.

The waist band isn’t on them yet, but I’ll be putting a piece of elastic through it, as well as using stay tape in the top seam. I want to make sure these shorts don’t slide down!

From an initial try-on, they are amazing. I can hardly wait till tomorrow, when I’ll have the time to finish the waist and hem them.

The fabric is a natural linen curtain from Ikea that I purchased from the AS-IS section. Enough linen for a pair of shorts AND a skirt for $15? YEAH. I have another curtain that will probably become a pair of pants.

Looks like my colours this year are natural linen, coral and white. Not really what I was expecting, but I keep coming back to this colour combination! I should probably find a couple purple knits and whip up a couple more Blank Canvas Tees. Maybe purple stripes instead of grey? Hmm…

What I’ve done so far from my wardrobe “plan”… which it looks like I didn’t post:
– pair orange pants (<3 Wearing them again today.)
– coral (French terry) tee
– *navy plus fours (Might as well count them!)
– natural linen shorts (instead of black!)
– *purple nylon supplex hiking skirt

What I need to do:
– grey plus fours
– natural linen full length trousers (instead of black!)
– woven blouse (Have purchased a custom blouse draft!! Can hardly wait! Or maybe the Sisters of Edwardia Blouse once Steph posts my size!)
– striped tees
– *another coral tee (have fabric)
– *natural linen skirt

* denotes an extra

Optional but would be really nice:
– hiking pants (quick-dry nylon! Oh please!)
– hiking shorts (also quick-dry nylon)
– gaiters. Water proofed. (Natural linen scraps from curtains?) I have fused water resistant polar fleece ones, but they are too warm for right now. Since I’m doing field work this week I might try to get these made tomorrow, so I don’t have to wear full length rain pants.

Colette Patterns Spring & Summer Challenge

Colette Patterns Spring & Summer Challenge

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A note..

Has anyone ever had/tried Gramicci pants or shorts? I have a pair of hiking pants (that don’t fit) with this same style of rectangular gusset. I’m wondering how I should go about installing one in my linen pants.

My thought was to measure the pants I have – I think the gusset is 3.5″ – and base my alterations on that. The idea is that if I cut a strip of fabric 3.5″ plus seam allowances, then remove 1.75″ from the front and back inside seams of my trouser pattern, that should go together pretty seamlessly. After all, my trousers do fit pretty much perfectly, so I’m not adding the gusset for extra ease. I’m adding it for ease of repair, as patching over a rectangular gusset would be SO much simpler.

Someone I knew had a pair of these pants, and I think the mens version has a double layer bias cut section for the crotch part of the gusset, for extra room. That could also be an option, if I can’t get a continuous piece of fabric for the gusset. After all, I am cutting these from a pair of curtains…

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A couple weeks ago I decided to try making some pants out of some stretchy linen blend stuff I found in my stash. This is the summer of extreme budgeting, so only once patterns are perfected and I have “wearable muslins” am I going out and buying fabric to make things in.

I decided to put a yoke and pockets into the pants, and happily hacked and slashed my way through adjusting the pattern, and cutting it out in my chosen only stretch fabric.

I split the difference between my block and the pattern, but need to go and follow the pattern just a little more closely. I’ve unpicked the waistband in preparation for this (OMG. I stabilized it with a bazillion lines of stitches AND a ribbon. That took forever.), and am preparing to haul out the patterns (once I’m finished writing this and maybe the cat wants to get off my lap) to make adjustments.

Looking at the amount of stretch, I think I might need to take them in even more than I was thinking… Hmm. The pattern as-is could be good for a fabric with a slight amount of stretch, but the fabric I have… well, you’ll see!

Me in navy stretch pants, showing the ridiculous amount of stretch by pulling the fabric away from my hip.

Stretch from the front!

Me wearing navy stretch pants, side view. Pulling stretchy fabric away from my bum.

Stretch from the side!

From the side, no stretching.

From the side.

From the back, no stretching.

From the back.

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More pants!

So it turns out that one of the courses I’m taking this summer requires a bunch of bushwhacking and orienteering. This means that hiking clothing has just been moved to the top of my list! I found some nice linen curtains (from Ikea!) in my stash, so I’ll be making a pair of hiking plus-fours, or a pair of trousers with a tie-cuff, depending on how much fabric I actually have.

Hopefully I can do trousers with a reinforced crotch and a tie cuff, so they last longer and so I can tuck them into gaiters or socks. I don’t know if I’ll be hiking where ticks live this summer, but I’d like to be prepared. Normally I wear a skirt and bike shorts, but my instructor might take issue with that!

I’ve done a couple drawings, but I’m not sure if I can figure out how to attach them. :)

20120508-132629.jpg

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