I went camping this past weekend and wore my new multi-period underdress! Alas, I overfit it somewhat and need to open up the seams and insert some gores. Whoops. Otherwise, it was very comfortable. The arm holes didn’t bind, the sleeves were comfy, and my phone fit down the front between the dress and chemise, under my jacket and blanket and hood… yes, it was REALLY cold all weekend.
War in the Distance
Which brings me to a new requirement. Wooly garb. I went to the thrift shop yesterday and picked up a length of teal wool that should be enough for an underdress, and a length of grey wool that was perfect for a Viking apron dress.
The Viking apron dress is already made. I bound the top edge with rust linen, and attached buttons instead of using (really expensive) proper apron pins. I will need to stitch down all the long seams by hand, and hem it (…probably by machine!) so I can wear it and be warmer this coming weekend.
Fish buttons on apron dress
I’m also re-building a smock I made years and years ago, as I never finished the seams and it’s come apart in multiple places in the wash. This means unpicking, ironing, sewing the seams back up, top stitching them down (all by machine for this one!), and adding in a couple panels for width due to the loss of width with the new seam allowances. It’s worth it, though, as this one is of a silk/linen blend that is absolutely dreamy to wear.
So that’s what I’m working on this week – altering the new dress, finishing the Viking dress, and fixing an old smock. For this coming weekend I do have undertunics that will work for the Viking dress, but the extra layer of the smock would probably be appreciated! Hopefully I can get it all done in time.
Scenery – this was after I had walked about 2km, and I was still cold.
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I’m still thinking about the Mashup Dress. I have enough fabric, so I might re-cut the bodice starting with an XL and doing the 1″ (2″ total) FBA, as it just doesn’t feel right on. The skirt will also be re-cut so it doesn’t have the gathers at the waist and is instead more of a circle from the waist. It’s about 2/3 circle, I think. Really swishy and nice on its own.
But! That will have to wait, as I am working on making a 15th century-ish short sleeved kirtle with a waist seam! Yes, I know. Not really the modern clothes I’ve been trying to work on. But I have 2 weeks to make the kirtle, and then 1 more week to make a viking overdress for another event I might be going to. I will also need to find a lap table or something for my camping stove at that event, as I’m not sure if a kitchen will be going and I shouldn’t have my stove right on the ground. But that will be simple enough. The trick will be actually making the clothing items I need!
I’ve been doing a lot of research, and it looks like the short sleeved kirtle or cotehardie might not be exactly period, but it will be a lot more comfortable in the summer, and also easier to wear layered under things in the winter. Yep, that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. The part I’m most concerned about is hand sewing the button holes for the lacing. I haven’t done that in AGES, and don’t have a source for silk buttonhole twist. So I’ll be using regular top-stitching thread, doubled and waxed, for the button holes.
Ok. Got to get ironing. The bodice has been worked out based on a ’50s dress I made ages ago. I closed up the darts and did shaped panels under the arm. For a more early period option, I’d extend the skirt from those panels, but as I’m working with a cotton linen blend, I’m just going to chuck in a waist seam and attach a gored skirt there. If it works for me, I’ll make a more accurate one with long sleeves and shaped full length side panels out of wool. And as an underdress, the one with a waist seam should work for multiple periods. Maybe I’ll make a Mary of Hapsburg overdress one day!
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I’m not 100% convinced about this, but I think once it’s hemmed it’ll be great in the winter with a cardigan. Mostly the waistline looks… weird. I have a super high waist, but the dress almost looks too long in the back and too short in the front. Meh. Maybe next time I’ll do a band at the waist instead of just bodice -> skirt!
The main colour is teal ponte, and the black is a higher quality random bit of ponte I had in my stash.
The bodice is a Moneta in L and a 2″ total FBA which may not have been enough in this more solid fabric. I drew in princess seams to do side panels, and also used the back for neck and arm bindings.
The skirt is Tiramisu, cut big and with no CF or CB seams. I used the slash pockets from Cambie.
Maybe if like it better if there weren’t the gathers for the skirt? Idk, I’ve been looking at pictures of Moneta all week while I tried to decide what to do, and I actually really liked them on people!
So that’s my new dress. Yay dress! I definitely want more in softer jerseys, and will probably make more in ponte with some size adjustments.
Sorry for the wonky photos. I did them with my phone propped on some stuff on a chair!
Posted in completed project, sewing | Tagged cake patterns, cambie, colette, completed project, dress, Mashup Dress, moneta, sewaholic, tiramisu | Leave a Comment »
Today I’ve been playing with printing some patterns, in the hopes that once the dryer is fixed tomorrow, I can dry my fabric and then start sewing some more things!
I’ve started doing a bit more renaissance/medieval stuff again, and as the last event I went to I ended up with some heat exhaustion, I thought I’d pull some linen (or linen/cotton blend in this case) from my stash and make a new dress. A cooler dress. But under the dress I’m going to test Katafalk’s Lengberg Bodice (Not really safe for work, folks! It’s opaque, but it’s still skivvies.). She and I are apparently almost exactly the same size, so I’m using her pattern as a base. I’m going to test it with random linen scraps first, then hopefully hand stitch one in white linen.
I’ve been doing some research, and I’ve decided to make a short sleeved linen kirtle. 15th century-ish. I’m not exactly sure if it will have a waist seam or not yet, that decision will be made once I have it fit and I lay the pattern out on my fabric. Short sleeves aren’t exactly super common according to some of the research I’ve read (See: Will the Real Fifteenth Century Sleeve Please Stand up? by Charlotte Johnson (Lady Mathilde Bourette)), but it will be more comfortable when it’s hot. And when it’s cooler I’ll be able to pin on sleeves and then throw on a wool overdress for the complete layered look.
I will want a real linen dress, as well as a woolen overdress. This means I’m going to be saving my pennies for a time, since linen and wool aren’t the cheapest of fabrics. Thankfully where I am, there are a couple excellent discount stores for coloured linen and wools – Atex Fabrics, and Dressew. (I buy all my white and unbleached linen at Maiwa Supplies, which is $$$ but the quality is out of this world lovely. And I need less for a shift or headdress than I do for a full dress.)
Otherwise, I need to finish my colour blocked dress today. One thing at a time, self. One thing at a time.
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Yes! I’m already making another one.
I used the size L, and did a 1″ (on one side, so 2″ total) FBA and spun the dart out to make it a princess seam bodice, with the seam laying off to the side of my bust. I also pieced the back. Then I sewed it all together and tried it on! Actually pretty darn good. I just needed to take in the princess seams where they meet the arm hole, due to a tiny rib cage and a fairly high bust. The extra length is really good, but there’s still space for a black waistband should I so choose.
It’s a really pretty jewel tone teal ponte, with black sides, and other black trim I haven’t decided on. You see, I’m stuck! I’m not sure if I should line it with powernet, or just leave it and add a black neck binding and teal sleeves with black trim, or if it should be sleeveless, or if I should do a Tiramisu skirt or a full circle skirt, or what.
But me, a non-dress-wearing-person actually LOVES the dress she wore today and wants more. So, uhh, I’m gonna listen to myself.
I probably could have finished it today, but I’d rather take my time and think about it, and not use too many spoons sewing. I’m so SO thankful that this knit dress has worked so well with minimal changes.
(I still have plans for more wide leg trousers, and more skirts, and more blouses, and even some woven dresses. But! Knit!! Dresses!!!)
Posted in Planning, sewing | Tagged cake patterns, colette patterns, moneta, planning, ponte, tiramisu | Leave a Comment »
And I still haven’t finished updating Me Made May. Urgh. I don’t think I’m so good with the whole taking photos thing! Although, I do have editing software on my phone now so if I can find an inexpensive tripod that I can leave set up, and a phone holder thing, I’ll be able to take photos on my PHONE and edit them and write posts! That seems like a pretty good plan.
Anyways, I’ve been sewing a bit. I made another Cake Patterns tank (the Janthina Shell), and I really love the pattern although I’m ultra super short through the upper body so next time I’ll have to raise the arm holes. There will DEFINITELY be a next time for this one. Love it so much. And today I finally printed out Colette Moneta, and taped it together (Is it just me or is their print-at-home layout horrifically wasteful? I had to print ~19 pages for the bodice and short sleeves, and it feels like I threw more than half of it into the recycling!). I had a Tiramisu dress that was giving me Issues, so I chopped off the bodice and slapped on a Moneta bodice instead. I checked Moneta against my Scout Tee, and determined the neckline was way to wide and high for me, so I changed it a bit. I also did a teensy swayback adjustment, and lengthened the front by about 1/2″. Then attached the Tiramisu skirt! It’s AMAZING. Seriously. The only issue? Not enough fabric, so I had to seam the front and also cut it on an angle. Still, I didn’t do too bad a job matching stripes on the fly, so I’m not terribly upset.
I’ve already altered the pattern to have a 1″ swayback adjustment (or short-back adjustment, tbh) and measured the neckline as I HATE the fold-over finish. I’ll be using a regular bound edge for the next one I’m making. In fact, the next one is coming up pretty quick. I have a delightful teal ponte, and some black ponte. I’m going to do black side panels and a black belt. and black binding on the neck. Just about to do a small FBA (I’m using the L size bodice for the FBA, and making it a touch bigger than the XL for this fabric), and I’ll convert the dart into a wide princess seam for the side panels. Teal is not my colour at all, so this feels like a good option for making it work!
Here’s a sneak peek of my Monetisu? Tireta? Whatever mashup name you choose, it’s a great combo.
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Well hello there.
I realize I haven’t finished updating Me Made May yet, and I do apologize. The photos are on my camera, which I put “somewhere safe” after going camping with my parents (I did wear me-mades camping!) and yeah. I feel kind of silly about that. What I really need to do is get a tripod clamp for my phone, as it’s SO easy to edit and upload the photos from my phone. Then writing a post on my computer to get proper formatting isn’t so difficult.
Something I’ve been thinking about is lighting. There really isn’t anywhere outside my apartment, so I kind of want to get some better lighting so my photos aren’t so dark and grainy. I’m leaning towards some construction lights with paper or fabric diffusers on them, for cheapness and because they seem like they’d be easier to store. My budget is practically nil, and proper lights are expensive and fairly difficult to get here. Mostly because ordering online would be best, but I don’t have a passport so I can’t get to a US post box!
I’ll be sure to update with some research and what I end up deciding on once I get to that point!
Anyone use special lighting for their photos?
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