After sewing most of the dress last night, I realized that it probably isn’t a French terry. I think it’s just a thick 100% cotton knit, as it has practically no recovery. The dress is pretty good, but there are some things I need to fix on it,
- Even though I cut the neckline binding quite a bit shorter than the actual neck opening, it’s just not doing its job. I need to undo the underbust seam where the binding attaches and slide some flat elastic in there to help hold everything together. This is due to the fabric. This won’t happen if I make the dress again in a real French terry, as the ones I have available have a little lycra in them.
- The sleeves need a wide sleeve binding, as the narrow just doesn’t work in this fabric.
- I will probably have to hem it. Sigh.
One thing I’ve noticed is that the dress is quite low-cut on me. Low-cut to the point where most of my bras show (I wear everything except plunges, so this is irritating). I had moved the CF seam 1 cm to get more of an overlap, to hopefully raise the neckline, but that didn’t happen. Instead, I’m getting those drag lines that move diagonally down and out from the binding. I also think I need more width above the bust, so I might slash-and-spread along the FBA line and ease the front shoulder into the back. This is pretty typical for me as my front ribs are much broader than my back, and then on top of that I have a very full bust.
I’d really really prefer the mole to be covered, or at least my cleavage not be quite so exposed, but I’m not sure what to do as I get more drag lines if I add more overlap. Maybe I should just add to the overlap seam on the dress, instead of overlapping more. Hmm.

I love the colour of your fabric! It’s a lovely shade. :)
I don’t have a solution for you, but I encourage you to email Steph with your questions. She’s really good at fitting this dress, and is happy to help people get the perfect fit. Send her your pictures (or a link to this post) and she should be able to help.